Character Buildings Of Prague
If you like unique places, Prague is one of those magical European cities that somehow managed to preserve a large chunk of its history and therefore is full of places with character and slightly mysterious, and sometimes grotesque atmosphere.
Here are a few of my top picks in this category for anyone who is considering travelling to europe.
Dwarf Street
Ok, it’s not called that, but Snow White’s cohort of little friends would feel right at home on the Golden Lane (Zlata Ulicka), which is part of the complex of Prague Castle. The street is full of miniature Mannerist-style houses dating back to the end of the 16th century, originally built for the castle marksmen and their families. As far as I understand, they were not actually dwarves; clearly king Rudolf II, like any politician, was just trying to save on space and costs.
One of the famous inhabitants of this street, besides notorious alchemists and psychics across history, was arguably the Czech Republic’s most famous writer, Franz Kafka, at no. 22. Of his home city he said, “Prague never lets you go… this dear little mother has sharp claws.”
Gargoyles and Occult Clocks
And if you look closely, the claws quoted above were not entirely metaphorical. Prague’s Old Town (Staré Mêsto) features architecture from 13th to 18th century, from gothic to baroque and everything in between. Gargoyles abound as well as even more macabre figures (including poor Kafka himself, balancing on a headless golem…right outside the Spanish Synagogue!), many of which you’ll be able to appreciate on Charles Bridge and surrounds, as well as in blatantly mad churches like the Loreto, a must-see regardless of your religious affiliation. A stand-out highlight there is definitely a statue of the female bearded saint, St Wilgefortis, with St Agatha carrying her breasts on a meat platter a close second. Must be seen to be believed.
Continuing in the vein of the grotesque and the macabre, check out the 15th century Astronomical Clock on the Old Town Hall tower (Orloj and Staroměstská radnice) and its medieval figurine show emerging on cue every hour, featuring Greed, Vanity, the Turk and Death. The rather intricate zodiac figures on the clock’s face are rumoured to hide occult secrets. Perhaps that’s the reason why the clock-maker’s eyes were gauged out? I’ll let you find out the myths and the stories for yourself, but you’ll have to get over your aversion to less than perfect English and go on a tour with a Czech guide to get a more authentic feel for the city and its remarkable history – it’s worth it.
Puppets, Cemeteries and Some Deserved Rest
The eerie yet serene Old Jewish Cemetery (Starý Židovský hřbitov), in use between 15th and 17th century, is unique as it holds around 100,000 bodies in around 12 layers deep on its small plot, as the Jewish ghetto residents were not allowed to enlarge it. Wandering around here is a rather humbling experience, which gives plenty of insight into the times and the complexity of the social fabric of Prague.
For something really different, go and see a quirky Czech puppet show, an entertainment not just for kids, but a political, satirical and existential art, which you can partake in at the fabulous Formans’ Mystery Boat Theatre or in Divadlo Minor. You can also buy a quality souvenir puppet at Truhlář Marionety in Malá Strana.
Speaking of Lesser Quarter (Mala Strana), that’s the place you’ll want to stay in Prague if you can. Located a short walk from the Old Town beyond Charles Bridge, it’s a much quieter section of the old city, full of beautiful narrow streets, stunning architecture, boutique shopping and great dining out and strolling options for the evenings. Best of all, you’ll feel like you’ve been transported back in time to a century long gone.
Citations:
- 1. cc flickr photo by enriquefreire
Patricia Bieszk is a freelance writer who wishes she could teleport herself back to Prague right now.
